Ordering Natural Stone Tiles

How do I measure my backsplash?

Whether your space is sleek, classic, or cozy, your backsplash can be the centerpiece of your kitchen or bathroom. Some people like to tile from their countertop to the base of the cabinets above, while others extend their backsplash all the way to the ceiling. Whatever your preference, measure the height of your backsplash area in inches, then measure its length in inches. Multiply the height by the length, then divide by 144 to get the square footage you'll need. If you'd like to tile additional areas, such as a panel above your range, measure these separately and add them to your total.

Please remember that not all mosaic sheets are 1 square foot, so be sure to read the product information before you place your order, and read the section on overage below to ensure you order enough tile.

How do I measure my border?

Moldings and borders can create effective definition between features such as backsplashes and the walls that surround them. If you'd like to use a border, measure it in linear feet: measure the height of your backsplash area in inches, then measure its length, and add the two together. Finally, divide by 12 to get the linear footage you'll need.

Please remember that not all border tiles are 12 inches long, so be sure to read the product information before you place your order, and read the section on overage below to ensure you order enough tile.

How do I measure my bathroom or kitchen?

Calculating the tile you'll need is as simple as measuring each wall or floor, one by one. Measure the first wall from top to bottom in inches, then measure from side to side in inches. Multiply these values, then divide by 144 to get the square footage you'll need. Repeat this process until you've measured every surface to be tiled.

Make sure to read the section on overage below to ensure you order enough tile.

How much overage should I include?

Overage is the extra tile needed to make sure you're covered in case of breakage or miscalculation. Imagine your room is a simple 20 sq. ft. square. Allowing 15% overage, you'd order an extra 3 sq. ft. for a total of 23 sq. ft., and feel secure you'll have enough tile to complete the job.

But what if your room isn't a basic square? As a rule of thumb, the more complex your room, the more overage you'll need:

• A room with more than four corners, or walls of differing heights, needs 20% overage
• A really complicated room needs 30% overage

Calculating overage for borders is simple: allow one extra piece per corner of your border.

If you're not sure, play it safe. Having a few leftover tiles is far more economical than ordering a new shipment, and may be a welcome resource if a tile becomes damaged, even years into the future.

What if my tile arrives damaged?

At TileBuys we adhere to strict quality control processes, triple-checking each tile and packaging each order carefully before shipping. As tiles are dispatched, ownership transfers to the buyer. Occasionally tiles may be damaged during transport, so it's important to open and carefully inspect your entire shipment when it arrives.

If you detect any damage, we're here to help. Any damage must be reported to TileBuys in writing within 72 hours of receipt, and any discrepancies must be marked on your Bill of Lading. TileBuys will process your freight claim with the carrier on your behalf if you'd like us to, though we can't be responsible for the outcome of your claim.

Installation

Are there any tricks to installing natural stone tiles?

The beauty of stone lies in its natural variations. Before you get started, be sure to lay out your tiles to ensure proper blending of the subtle shifts in color and veining found in your tile.

Should I seal my natural stone tiles?

Yes, natural stone must be sealed to maintain long-term integrity.

What grout and sealer should I use?

It sounds crazy, but we can't recommend particular setting materials — weather has a big impact on the best grouts and sealers to use in different regions across the country and the world. Check with a local installer; they'll know what materials work best in your area.

Natural Stone Maintenance

How do I care for my natural stone tiles?

Marble and other natural stone can be swept, mopped, and vacuumed just like any other surface. You can also use a natural stone cleaner to keep your tiles looking flawless for life. We recommend a pH-neutral stone cleaner — all brands vary, so please follow the manufacturer's instructions.

1. Carefully Choose the Selection

Many natural stones are offered in various selections, which means the aesthetics can vary greatly. For example, two materials may share the same name, but one selection might have a pure background and desirable color while the other is more muddled in appearance with less desirable color. When selecting a natural stone, make sure the selection you choose is the right one for your project.

2. Understand the Grade of the Material

Natural stones vary in grade, which refers to the soundness of the material and how easily it can be fabricated and installed. A Grade A material will have fewer cracks, fissures, and veins, while Grade B, C, or D materials are more likely to have cracks and fissures that are factory-filled with resin or cement. Asking about the grade will help you — or your client — know what to expect with each material.

3. View the Stone

Buying a sample lets you view the product before purchasing. Natural stone will vary in color naturally — just because your small sample is pure white doesn't mean every chip will be that exact color. These variations are where the true beauty lies. Take the time to lay out your natural stone tiles to get the variation and patterns exactly how you like them. It's not necessary, but some people find that lining up veins and different color tones is really rewarding. Remember that the grout color you choose will be a huge factor in the overall appearance of your finished project.

4. Quality Manufacturing

Our high-quality material is manufactured with care and technical expertise, and goes through a triple-point quality control process.

Defining Quality

How we produce high-quality natural stone tile:

i. Dimensional Consistency

We keep dimensions consistent from piece to piece. Our chips are triple-inspected — we're true craftsmen when it comes to manufacturing tile.

ii. Squareness of Tile & Beveling

Our QC team ensures that each subway tile, random strip, and other linear mosaic is cut at a true 90-degree angle and has a consistent, beveled edge. You won't find better quality anywhere.

iii. Range Selection

Since all natural stone varies from piece to piece, we never mix lots. When you order from TileBuys, lot consistency is our promise.

Things to Know When Buying Natural Stone for Your Home

i. Resin & Fissures

Most natural stone has inherent cracks and fissures — this is perfectly normal. Resin makes the stone far more stable, making the material more resistant to breaking and allowing it to take a better polish.

These tips should help you get the most out of your stone purchase. Always inspect the materials at the project site prior to installation to make sure they meet your expectations, and always seal natural stone prior to use.

Recommendations for the use of cleaning and maintenance products are included in this document as a convenience to the reader. The suggestions regarding product application are a guide and are not a guarantee of performance. This document and the information provided herein, including any reference to products, is provided "as is," without any warranty or implied term of any kind. TileBuys specifically disclaims any responsibility or liability relating to the use of the suggested products and shall under no circumstances be liable for damages of any nature resulting from the use of or reliance upon information from this website or the products referenced.

A comprehensive care and maintenance program is just as important as the initial material selection. Homeowners should be aware of care and maintenance requirements before selecting a material; architects and designers should know this information prior to specifying a material and are strongly encouraged to share it with their clients. A comprehensive care and maintenance plan helps ensure long-term satisfaction with a material choice. These recommendations are based on those from The Marble Institute of America and cover general guidelines for caring for materials based on application.

Cleaning Natural Stone Products

As a general rule of thumb, whenever a spill occurs, immediately blot it with a paper towel — don't wipe the area, as this will spread the spill. Flush the area with plain water and a mild liquid dishwashing detergent, and rinse several times. Dry the area thoroughly with a soft cloth.

Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar, or other acids on marble or limestone. Do not use scouring powders or creams, as these products contain abrasives that may scratch the surface.

Application-Specific Cleaning Instructions

Flooring Applications

Dust interior floors frequently using a clean, dry dust mop. Sand, dirt, and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasiveness. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance help minimize the sand, dirt, and grit that scratch the stone floor — be sure the underside of the mat or rug is a non-slip surface. Do not use worn vacuum cleaners, as metal or plastic attachments or wheels may scratch the surface.

Bathroom Applications

In the bath basin or other wet areas, soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about ½ cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.

Vanities & Other Countertops

Vanity tops may need a penetrating sealer applied — check with your installer for recommendations. A good-quality marble wax or non-yellowing automobile paste wax can be applied to minimize water spotting.

Kitchen Applications

All natural stone used for kitchen countertop applications must be regularly maintained and resealed to prevent staining. Always use a neutral detergent to clean marble countertops.

Exterior Pool & Patio Applications

In outdoor pool, patio, or hot tub areas, flush with clean water and use a mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.

Identifying a Stain

Staining refers to the residual effect of a spill that can't be removed with dishwashing detergent. Identifying the source of the stain is key to removing it. If you don't know what caused the stain, ask: Where is it located? Is it near a plant, food service area, or an area where cosmetics are used? What color is it? What's the shape or pattern? What goes on in the area around the stain?

Surface stains can often be removed with an appropriate cleaning product or household chemical. Deep-seated or stubborn stains may require a poultice or a professional.

The following sections describe common types of stains and how to treat them without damaging the surface of the stone.

Oil-Based (grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics)

An oil-based stain will darken the stone. Generally, oil must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft liquid cleanser with bleach, household detergent, ammonia, mineral spirits, or acetone.

Organic (coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird droppings)

May cause a pinkish-brown stain that can disappear once the source is removed. Outdoors, normal sun and rain will generally bleach out the stain over time. Indoors, clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair-bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.

Metal (iron, rust, copper, bronze)

Iron or rust stains are orange to brown and follow the shape of the staining object, such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, or metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear green or muddy-brown and result from moisture reacting with nearby or embedded metal items. Metal stains must be removed with a poultice — deep-seated rust stains are extremely difficult to remove, and the stone may be permanently stained.

Biological (algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi)

Clean with a diluted solution (½ cup in a gallon of water) of ammonia, bleach, or hydrogen peroxide.

Do not ever mix ammonia and bleach — this combination creates a toxic and lethal gas.

Ink (magic marker, pen, ink)

Light-colored stone only: clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide. Dark-colored stone only: use lacquer thinner or acetone.

Paint

Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razor blade. Heavy paint coverage should only be removed with a commercial "heavy liquid" paint stripper (available from hardware stores and paint centers), which normally contains caustic soda or lye.

Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from stone, as paint strippers can etch the surface and re-polishing may be necessary. Follow the manufacturer's directions, flush the area thoroughly with clean water afterward, and protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection while working in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers to remove sludge and curdled paint.

Latex and acrylic paints normally won't cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks, and sealants may cause oily stains — see the Oil-Based section above.

Water Spots and Rings (surface accumulation of hard water)

Buff with dry 0000-grit steel wool.

Fire and Smoke Damage

Older stones and smoke- or fire-stained fireplaces may need a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available "smoke removers" can save time and effort.

Efflorescence (film on surface of the material)

Materials exposed to moisture may develop a white or dark film over time. In natural stone, efflorescence is caused by water carrying mineral salts from below the surface up to the exposed face. In porcelain tile, it appears on grout joints or unglazed tiles and is caused by moisture reacting with impurities in the mortar.

Solution: For natural stone, if the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder — you may need to do this several times. Don't use water to remove it, as it will only temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact your installer to help identify and remove the source of the moisture.

Scratches (scratch marks and abrasions on the surface)

Light scratching occurs over time with exposure to sand and other abrasives. The finish will patina or dull as a result.

Solution:

• If a material with low abrasion resistance is used, use walk-off mats at entrances and expect the material to patina rapidly
• Always use a cutting board for countertop applications
• Slight surface scratches may be buffed with dry, lowest-grit (0000) steel wool
• Deeper scratches and nicks should be repaired and re-polished by a professional

Perfectly Imperfect

All materials — natural materials in particular — are perfectly imperfect. Materials will have a wide range of characteristics, such as factory-repaired holes, cracks, and fissures, and will vary from piece to piece. Materials will stain, scratch, etch, patina, and/or effloresce, and there's no such thing as a "perfect" installation.

All of this is perfectly normal and is part of the inherent beauty of the materials — these are not material defects.

Our goal is to minimize surprises and help set realistic expectations. Our experience tells us that when clients know exactly what to expect, they're satisfied with their materials after installation. When they haven't been properly educated about what to expect, they may perceive natural characteristics as defects. This guide is designed to help architects, designers, contractors, sub-contractors, and clients understand and appreciate these inherent characteristics.

Acid Etching

Surface erosion of natural stone.

Marble, travertine, limestone, and onyx will react to acidic foods (like lemons or tomatoes) and acidic liquids (like some cleaners or acid rain). This reaction dulls the surface sheen and changes the texture — known as "acid etching."

Tips: If etching is a concern, select a material with a minimally sensitive acid resistance rating, such as quartzite, or specify a light, honed surface to diminish the visibility of etching. To remove an acid stain from a polished stone surface, use Fila Marble Restorer.

Cracking

A split in the surface of the tile or slab.

All hard surfaces are prone to cracking, but steps can minimize the likelihood and ensure longevity. Cracks in flooring applications are typically due to an uneven subfloor, the subfloor shifting after installation, or the material not being able to withstand the traffic conditions in the space.

Tips: Proper setting specification is essential. Refer to the TCNA Handbook for Ceramic, Glass and Stone Tile Installation and the MIA Handbook for other stone installations and their allowable tolerances, including information on anti-fracture membranes.

Efflorescence

A white or dark film appears on the surface, generally in exterior applications or wet areas.

Efflorescence in natural stone is caused by water carrying mineral salts from below the surface up to the exposed face. In porcelain tile, it appears on grout joints or unglazed tiles and is caused by moisture reacting with impurities in the mortar.

Tips: Choose a material suitable for wet areas (refer to the usage guide). For new natural stone installations, dust mop or vacuum the powder — don't use water, as it will only temporarily disappear. If the problem persists, contact your installer to identify and remove the cause of the moisture.

Factory-Filled Holes

Holes in the stone appear to have been filled with epoxy and may look discolored.

Factories often fill especially porous materials, such as basalt or travertine, with resin epoxy or cement. UV exposure in exterior applications will change the color of resin over time. Expect to see factory-filled holes in highly absorbent materials as well as basalt or travertine — repair quality depends on the factory of origin, fabricator, and installer.

Tips: Don't use resin-filled material outdoors, since the resin will discolor over time. For exterior applications, choose cement-filled material instead.

Lippage

The floor appears uneven after installation.

Some tile installations show lippage — a difference in height from one installed tile to the next — often caused by uneven subfloors or improper installation. All hard surfaces have allowable tolerances, so a certain amount of lippage is expected in every installation.

Tips: Lighting at oblique angles makes lippage more visible. A 50% offset (brick joint) pattern accentuates the effects of material warpage and results in more lippage, while a running-bond pattern (offset not exceeding 33%) and a wider grout joint make lippage less noticeable, though it won't eliminate it entirely.

Picture-Framing

A halo appears around the edge of the stone.

Materials with moderate or high absorbency ratings are prone to grout pigment leaching in from the edge of the stone, creating a halo effect known as "picture-framing."

Tips: Always seal porous materials prior to grouting or use, and always use a grout similar in color to the stone to avoid a picture-frame effect.

Scratching

Scratch marks and abrasions appear on the surface of the material.

Light scratching occurs over time with exposure to sand and other abrasives, and the finish will patina or dull as a result.

Tips: Choose a material with a moderate-to-high abrasion resistance rating. If a lower-rated material is used, use walk-off mats at entrances and expect the material to patina rapidly. Always use a cutting board for countertop applications. Slight surface scratches can be buffed with dry, lowest-grit (0000) steel wool; deeper scratches and nicks should be repaired and re-polished by a professional.

Staining

Discoloration that can be clearly distinguished from the surface, material, or medium it's found on.

Staining often occurs when a stone has a high absorption rate and/or hasn't been properly sealed — it's the residual effect of a spill that can't be removed with dishwashing detergent.

Tips: Choose a material with a minimally absorbent rating, always seal stone prior to use, and always wipe up spills immediately. Oil and highly pigmented liquids can penetrate and stain the stone and may need a poultice to remove. See the Care & Maintenance guide above for more detailed instructions.

Variations

Materials vary in appearance from the original sample and from piece to piece upon installation.

As with any natural material, no two pieces of natural stone are exactly alike — color, as well as the percentage, size, and shape of markings, will always vary. Variation is not a material flaw; it's important to understand the range for any given material prior to purchasing.

Tips: Larger pieces give a better idea of the color and veining typically found in a material. Before installation — particularly with materials featuring a wide range of variation — we strongly suggest laying out the stone and blending the variations from different crates.

Setting Expectations for Natural Stone

It's critical to know what to expect with natural stone prior to making a selection. All natural stone has inherent characteristics; it's natural, and therefore always imperfect (or perfectly imperfect, depending on your view). Some materials are easier to maintain than others, so be sure to consider these details before choosing your material. The appearance of natural stone will always patina over time, without exception. All natural stone should be set properly, sealed, and maintained — this requires a well-researched setting, sealing, and maintenance specification in order to avoid surprises.

Helpful Tips

• Always seal this material prior to grouting or use.
• Always use a grout that is similar in color to the stone to avoid a picture-frame effect.
• To reduce the appearance of staining in kitchen countertop applications, always wipe up spills immediately. Oil and highly pigmented liquids can penetrate and stain the stone and may need a poultice to remove.

Material-Specific Guidelines

Limestone

All limestones will acid-etch when exposed to acidic foods such as lemons or tomatoes. Most limestones have high absorption ratings and low abrasion resistance ratings. In general, light-colored limestone is difficult to maintain in flooring applications with heavier traffic, gray limestone tends to effloresce in wet areas, and black limestone tends to show more scratching.

Tips:

• Do not use limestone for kitchen countertop applications
• Always seal limestone prior to grouting or use
• Always check the absorption and abrasion resistance ratings
• For limestone with a lower abrasion resistance rating, use walk-off mats at entrances and expect the material to patina rapidly
• Always use a grout similar in color to the stone to avoid a picture-frame effect
• To reduce the appearance of staining, always wipe up spills immediately — oil and highly pigmented liquids can penetrate and stain the stone and may need a poultice to remove
• Always use a neutral detergent to clean limestone
• Refer to the Usage guide to determine which limestones may be used in wet areas

Onyx

All onyx will acid-etch when exposed to acidic foods such as lemons or tomatoes. Most onyx has a moderate absorption rating and will stain when exposed to oil and highly pigmented liquids. All onyx has a very low abrasion resistance rating — it will scratch, chip, and crack — and naturally occurring cracks and fissures.

Tips: Onyx must be handled with extreme care in both fabrication and installation. It's suitable for interior wall applications, not floors, and is sometimes used on vanities and other non-food-service countertops — in these cases, the end user should be made aware of its acid sensitivity and fragility. Always use a neutral detergent to clean onyx. Expect to see factory-repaired cracks and fissures; repair quality depends on the factory of origin, fabricator, and installer.

Marble

All marble will acid-etch when exposed to acidic foods such as lemons or tomatoes. Most marble has a moderate absorption rating and will stain when exposed to oil and highly pigmented liquids. Most marble has a low abrasion resistance rating and is likely to scratch, with naturally occurring cracks and fissures. Light-colored marble is generally difficult to maintain in flooring applications with heavier traffic, and dark marble tends to show more scratching.

Tips: Always seal marble prior to use. Always use a neutral detergent to clean marble, and use walk-off mats at entrances for marble with a lower abrasion resistance rating. If acid etching is a concern, consider a material with a minimal acid sensitivity rating, such as quartzite or granite, or choose a honed, white marble with a low-to-moderate absorption rating to reduce the appearance of etching in kitchen applications.

Quartzite

Due to its incredibly high abrasion resistance, quartzite can be difficult to quarry and fabricate, which affects availability, fabrication lead times, and cost. Some quartzites have high absorption ratings and will stain when exposed to oil and highly pigmented liquids. Most quartzite has naturally occurring cracks and fissures.

Tips: Always seal quartzite prior to use, and always check the absorption rating. Expect to see factory-repaired cracks and fissures — repair quality depends on the factory of origin, fabricator, and installer.

Sandstone

All sandstones have high absorption ratings and medium abrasion resistance ratings and will stain when exposed to oil and highly pigmented liquids. Due to its absorbency and mineral makeup, sandstone tends to warp during installation.

Tips: Always seal sandstone prior to grouting or use, and always check the absorption rating. Use a grout similar in color to the stone to avoid a picture-frame effect, and wipe up spills immediately to reduce the appearance of staining. To prevent warpage, use a rapid-setting adhesive such as Mapei's GraniRapid or a similar product.

Schist

All schists have a moderate absorption rating and will stain when exposed to oil and highly pigmented liquids. All schists have a low abrasion resistance rating and are likely to scratch.

Tips: Always seal schist prior to grouting or use, and use a grout similar in color to the stone to avoid a picture-frame effect. Wipe up spills immediately to reduce the appearance of staining, and use walk-off mats at entrances, expecting the material to patina rapidly.

Slate

All slates have a moderate absorption rating and will stain when exposed to oil and highly pigmented liquids. All slates have a low abrasion resistance rating and are likely to scratch.

Tips: Always seal slate prior to grouting or use, wipe up spills immediately to reduce the appearance of staining, and use walk-off mats at entrances, expecting the material to patina rapidly.

Travertine

Travertine is a porous material with naturally occurring holes that may remain unfilled or be factory-filled with resin or cement. All travertines will acid-etch when exposed to acidic foods such as lemons or tomatoes, and have high absorption ratings and low abrasion resistance ratings.

Tips:

• Do not use resin-filled material outside, as the resin will discolor over time — choose cement-filled or unfilled material instead
• Fabricators will often need to resin-fill exposed edges to match the filled surface of the material
• Do not use travertine for kitchen countertop applications
• Always seal travertine prior to grouting or use
• Use walk-off mats at entrances and expect the material to patina rapidly
• Always use a grout similar in color to the stone to avoid a picture-frame effect
• Always use a neutral detergent to clean travertine
• To reduce the appearance of staining, always wipe up spills immediately — oil and highly pigmented liquids can penetrate and stain the stone and may need a poultice to remove

Glass Tile

All glass tiles can crack if not properly installed. The material expands and contracts when exposed to temperature changes found in shower areas, and movement — from building sway, settling foundations, or vibrations near elevator shafts — can also cause cracking. Larger-format glass is more prone to cracking than smaller-format.

Tips:

• Make sure the wall has properly gauged support studs, correctly braced
• Set appropriate grout joints — wider joints are needed for large-format glass tile, or tiles may crack
• Avoid contact between glass and metal (faucets, handles, shower frames) — any contact will cause the tile to crack
• Use the proper adhesive for the application — installers should refer to the TCNA handbook
• Fully cover tile backs in adhesive (back-butter) during installation, or tiles may crack
• Level and plumb the wall prior to installing glass — an unlevel surface creates tension across the wall that can cause tiles to crack
• Always refer to the Tile Council of North America (TCNA) Handbook